Travel writing
Spello
An ancient, hillside village hidden in the rolling fields of Umbria
Why Spello?
Originally, Spello wasn’t on the cards. We booked train tickets and accommodation for Siena, a city I’ve always wanted to see. Although we had seen amazing Italian cities (colourful buildings, vibrant nightlife and endless art collections), we needed a break. If you have experienced Italy in August, you will know that the crowds and the over-bearing sun are relentless. We had been in Florence, where the constant ebb and flow of bodies had been disorientating, especially in 38-degree heat. The busyness made it hard to think and, at times, hard to breathe. In a wave of frustration, I cancelled the trip to Siena after reading that it was a tourist hot spot and would be bustling with people. Using google maps, I stalked the endless Tuscan countryside in search of a quiet village. At some point, I must have crossed the border into Umbria and found Spello
Arrival
It is late when we arrive. The iridescent blue tint of dusk sits on the edge of town, waiting. The sun is a wide flat disk that slips lower with every breath. Spello is an ancient hillside village of cobblestone streets and beautiful buildings. It lies peacefully between Assisi and Foligno. The train stops at the bottom of the hill, looking back up at the golden village. Guy and I share a look as we realise we will be dragging our suitcases up steep cobblestone streets. Despite the late hour, a stubborn 35-degree heat remains in the air. Getting up the hill to our accommodation was a nightmare.. but worth it. Our Airbnb was a ground-level studio in an old stone building. The neighbours consisted of a straggly grey cat, a straggly tortoiseshell cat, and a fluffy black kitten - Not a bad neighbourhood if you ask me.
One of the best aspects of Spello is the buildings. One building, in particular, catches my eye. It stands tall and proud despite crumbling stones and years of neglect. In a high alcove, a near-hidden fresco shows the Madonna and Child. Mary's jewel blue drapery catches the last rays of light. She watches over the sleepy village as it begins to come alive in the first hours of darkness. Although quiet during the groggy hours of the summer day, Spello thrives at night. Restaurants set up plastic dining chairs and trestle tables down the cobblestone streets. Families wake from their siestas, throwing on the clothes they had discarded in the heat wave. Children run up and down the hillside, squealing in their unique way. The pent-up energy is set loose on the town. It seeps through the buildings like an invisible current, like the beginning of an electrical storm. We land in the chaos, head first and unawares.
From the archives
Villa Fidelia
A villa with extensive grounds found just outside of Spello… the garden is an Italian paradise of Cyprus trees, classical sculptures and an olive grove
Fresco - the soft colours remind me of a dream.
Paris
Wine Bars, Pedestrians, Boulangeries, Smokers, Street Art…
Introduction
There is a white stucco building with eggshell blue window shutters. Ivy climbs the low stone wall surrounding the property. Below me, the cobblestone street is littered with the signs of other pedestrians: cigarette butts, fallen flowers, and lost train tickets. Paris is a world of live music, street art and blaring horns. Everywhere I look, there is something to see.
We walk past the pharmacy, and a neon green cross flashes on the side of the building. Inside, rows of nail polish vials twinkle under the ceiling lights. I find the French Pharmacy's magic displayed in colourful glass bottles. There are lavender oil lotions, and rose petal perfumes.
In an old brick building beside the pharmacy is the local boulangerie. The warm scent of fresh pastries spills out onto the street. A woman in a long red dress exists with a paper cup, smoke curls from her cigarette. She scowls, but her eyes are bright.
We found an Airbnb in the 3rd arrondissement. There were numerous boutique clothing stores and bars along our street, as well as a fish market, laundromat, and organic goods store. It didn’t take long to find all the main galleries, my favourite being Musée de L’Orangerie. We took golden hour strolls along the Seine, alive with groups of young people, sharing wine and laughing into the night. It was the perfect place to stay.
If you are in Paris, catching the Metro for the first time is an experience as meaningful as indulging in freshly baked croissants…though not as romantic. The metro is a dark, hot place- humid like the inside of a greenhouse. Instead of plants, there are crowds of human bodies dripping with sweat while music blasts from their portable speakers. It seems all the young people walk around with portable speakers. The train screams into the station—metal screeching, bodies pressed together. Excitement rises in the otherwise stale air. Beside me, a man mumbles to himself and looks without seeing, lost inside a narcotic slumber.
Food and Drink
The wine bars of Paris spill out onto the streets on summer nights. Crowds of people twinkle beneath the low light of street lamps, laughing, playing cards and sharing drinks.
Restaurant Georgette
I recommend Restaurant Georgette for a drink and a platter. Georgette opens onto the street on warm summer nights. You can hear glasses clinking, muffled laughter, and low atmospheric music. Look at the happy hour specials. You’ll be pleased to know that Restaurant Georgette offers discounted wine, beers and aperols in the hour before sunset.
In regard to Croissants…
Try Boulangerie Nicholas Flamel. You can find this hidden gem on Rue de Montmorency.
Rue de Montmorency consists of the traditional Parisian buildings we all love: Grand stone structures that echo another time.
Flamel’s shopfront is painted white with gold lettering spelling out the much-loved word “Boulangerie.” Boulangeries are an essential aspect of French cultural origins. The art of baking has been around a lot longer than any of us, and it is a sacred part of French history. Traditional French breakfasts include freshly baked baguettes with butter and jam- a simple yet indulgent pleasure.
At Flamel’s I had my first croissant & espresso in France. If you are in France, I can not stress the importance of the croissant & espresso duo enough. The boulangerie smelt of freshly-baked pastries and hot coffee. The window display was a work of art showing mountains of pain aux raisin, pain aux chocolat, traditional croissants and much more delicacies. The woman who served us was kind and welcoming and had one of the most stylish hairdos I have ever seen. If you are in Paris, please visit Boulangerie Flamel; You will not regret it!
If you need a boulangerie in Montmartre I suggest Boris Lumé. Boris Lumé Boulangerie hides on Rue Caulaincourt near the end of Montmartre. Upon entering, you will find a cosy space with beautifully tiled walls and shelves of fresh baguettes. I chose a pain aux chocolat.. this was a little different for me as I am a traditional croissant girl. The pastry of the pain aux chocolat was buttery, flakey perfection. The chocolate filling was melty, rich and flavourful - a dream. I recommend getting one pain aux chocolat and one filled baguette- the perfect lunch-time combo!
Montmartre
The streets of Montmartre are serene once you pass the basilica and famous La Maison Rose. Although La Maison Rose was pretty, the crowds made it hard to relax. There is an endless stream of stalls selling Eiffel tower keychains, paper postcards and plastic water bottles. I recommend exploring Montmartre's quiet, mysterious streets down the hill from the iconic restaurant. Find Buste de Dalida, a small square named after the French singer. From this square, a pretty, tree-covered walkway leads you to Rue Simon Dereure. This area was a world away from the activity of the basilica. We picnic’d with baked goods sourced from Boulangerie Boris Lumé and made our way to the Romantic Museum. The museum is a beautiful white villa with mint green window shutters. The plantings surrounding the villa grow tall, offering mystery to this half-hidden gem. The garden cafe is a beautiful spot to sit if you need a quiet space to collect your thoughts. Although I can't recommend the menu as we didn't eat here, I can promise that the atmosphere of flowers and blue trestle tables offers a fairytale retreat.